Cockpit Comfort

To win, your driver needs to be up on the wheel all through the race. Proper cockpit layout will allow your driver to be there at the end. All components in the cockpit area should be precisely located and as much time as needed should be utilized to place your driver in position “A”. Designing a cockpit layout that functions in a seamless fashion will help your team to avoid crashes, make more passes and find Victory Lane on a regular basis.

Many states have banned hand held cell phone use while driving. Even at highway speeds the distraction factor in holding a cell phone causes poor driving and accidents. We have all seen cars on the highway driving in an erratic fashion due to cell phones. Why is the car in front of you is doing 48 miles an hour in a 60 mile an hour zone? As you blast by the car, traveling at an unexplained slow speed, it is easy to spot the cell phone causing the distraction. It was a little disappointing, this morning, when I drove by our local sheriff jamming up traffic on I-5 while talking on his cell phone going 48 miles an hour in the middle lane. The speed limit on that section of the freeway is 60MPH. Unbelievable!

If a simple cell phone causes street drivers to lose focus and drive erratically, then it follows that race drivers performing at the highest level could easily lose positions or find more wrecks due to a poorly laid out cockpit. Working to place cockpit items properly, takes more time than money. Even if you have to move cockpit items multiple times to find the perfect locations, your efforts will be worth the work. Drivers are so constrained, due to tight cockpits and safety devices, that a premium must be placed on everything they need so they can stay focused on racing instead of fumbling around and becoming distracted.

Steering wheels should be mounted close to the chest to give drivers increased leverage on the wheel resulting in more control and reduced back strain. Mounting the Steering wheel on the perfect angle and directly between the driver’s shoulders provides improved longevity. An adjustable steering column mount easily slides side to side on the dash bar making it simple to get the location right both left to right and up and down. Adjustment is so simple that teams can re-adjust until the steering wheel is in the perfect location. Adding a steering spacer can be the final touch in finding a comfortable wheel position for the driver.

An steering column mount that is easily moved can be adjusted by the driver right from the seat. Adjusting the steering wheel location so it is close to the chest and at the perfect angle keeps drivers fresh.

Steering Wheel spacers quickly bolt on giving your team a simple way to locate the steering wheel perfectly. If your driver ate one too many burgers, your crew can install a different thickness spacer quickly. Keeping a variety of spacers of different thicknesses on hand is a good idea. 

Adjustable throttle pedals allow for easy fitting helping your team to locate the throttle in perfect location. Mounting the seat leg support properly gives the driver a natural place to rest their leg. Battling centrifugal force for the entire night has worn out more than one driver. Driver comfort and position in the car are paramount. Leg angles, with pedals in a comfortable position, keep your driver fresh. A slightly bent knee gives the driver throttle control for a smooth drive off the corner. A floor mounted pedal can be precisely located to fit foot position and angle. The easy adjustment of a billet hanging pedal allows for quick adjustments in the shop or right at the track.

A steering column leg brace like this one bolts right to the adjustable steering shaft mount. For high speed high banked tracks a leg brace keeps your driver fresh for a strong finish.

Quality throttle pedal systems offer adjustability for comfort and precision for the smooth application of power

Switches that are in easy reach of the driver can save a motor. On those nights when the engine faces a problem, a well located ignition switch can save thousands of dollars. All switches should be within easy reach and located so the natural reaction of the driver can quickly slap the Red Aircraft cover in an instant. Gauges should be positioned so all information is gathered with a quick glance. At race speed, any distraction that takes the eyes off the action can result in a torn up car. Spending the extra time to find perfect viewing angles can save an engine and can reduce accidents.

Switch panel brackets fit right on your roll bar so you can mount the switches within easy reach of the driver.

Brake Balance adjusters are a great tool for dialing in the set up. Often, drivers are dialing in brake bias adjustments at race speed. An ergonomic positioning of the balance bar adjuster allows the driver to focus on driving instead of blindly searching for the adjuster handle. A balance bar with a smooth action and handle that is designed for race gloves is a must. Regardless of the type of racing, fireproof race gloves are mandatory – whether it is a track rule or not. Racing without fireproof gloves is a game of Russian Roulette that should never be played. We race for fun and safety needs to be continuously in the forefront of every member of your racing organization.

This brake balance adjuster has an easy to operate handle that is designed for adjustment when wearing fire resistant gloves. Your team can mount this version right out of the package - wide mounting holes allow you to mount it with out the need for dis-assembly.

Radios should be located so the driver can reach the controls. More than once I have seen cars where a team member needs to turn on the radio as the controls are out of reach of the driver. Too often, the race starts only to find out that the crew forgot to turn the radio on. Driver’s should be able to easily reach the volume control and on off switch. Changing channels is a reality so make sure your driver can easily reach the radio controls.

Radios are smaller today - using the right size box protects your investment. The clamp on this model rotates so you can mount on a roll bar within easy reach of the driver. Radios should be mounted so that the driver can operate the controls. If turning on the radio is forgotten - the driver should be able to easily reach the controls.

Drink bottles with an anti siphon valve ensure that drivers get needed hydration even if the hose falls. An anti siphon valve is a simple solution – if the hose falls the driver can simply grab anywhere on the hose to get an easy drink. Drink bottle fluid seems to always end up all over the floor at the hottest races of the year. Be sure to use a sports hydration fluid that supplies the driver with needed nutrition during practice and throughout the race. On a hot race day drivers fuel their calorie burn with plenty of adrenaline. Assign a crew member to clean the drink bottle right after the race. Poisoning your driver with a moldy drink bottle is a bad deal. Feeding your driver liquid that is better suited for a science experiment is not exactly the best way to prepare to win.

Drink bottles that are big enough to hydrate your driver for an entire night are a good idea. Anti-Siphon bite valves keep fluid in the bottle when it is most important. Be sure to sanitize the drink bottle and the end of every race night. The last thing your team needs is to have your driver ingesting a science experiment created by leaving fluid in a hot car to ferment.

A side view mirror and a rear view mirror need to be located so that the driver can see the entire envelope around their car in an instant. With your driver strapped in at the shop, verify that there are zero blind spots. A crew member can quickly walk around the car to verify that your driver can see everything directly with their eyes or with a rapid glance to the mirrors. Adjust and remount mirrors as needed to eliminate all blind spots. Mirrors are a safety device and while spotters play a great role – the buck stops with the driver and clear vision is needed at all times.

A wide angle mirror side view mirror should be designed for the job at hand verses being a bunch of cobbled up junk that imitates a real race part.

Safety in the cockpit should be given the highest priority. Sealing up every crack keeps carbon monoxide out of the cockpit. A fire resistant shifter boot seals out fumes and debris and is a must have item for fire protection. Fresh air is a must and a cooling fan supplying outside air through the helmet maintains the health of your driver. A window net kit should be installed so the window net is stretched tight inside of the roll bars and an easy to grip handle should have free and clear access. 1/10ths of a second matter should your driver need to get out of the car. Spend the time on safety. Treat your driver like a family member – because they probably are at your family reunion.

A fire extinguisher is a high pressure cylinder. Can you imagine the chaos, in the cockpit, if a fire extinguisher were to come loose? With the contents of the fire extinguisher being randomly sprayed about, visibility would be zero at race speed. Breathing would be difficult and the mess is difficult to clean up. A billet fire extinguisher mount solves the problem and allows for a mounting location that provides instant access. Spending ample time on fire protection is a responsibility for any team at every level of racing.

When it comes to mounting your fire bottle, safety is the primary concern.

By covering the basics of proper cockpit layout, you will improve driving focus and driver safety. Many of the covered topics may seem obvious yet, every time I am at the track I see numerous examples, from multiple teams, where proper time has not been spent on the obvious. Just about all racers have more time than money – spending the time needed for proper safety and driver comfort will actually gain you time. Proper effort placed into your cockpit layout will save you dollars that takes only a little time to spend.

Go Forward – Move Ahead

Jeff Butcher
9/1/11

Mounting Hardware

The building season brings many challenges relating to constructing a car that is lightweight, built to perform, and easy to work on. Back in the day, we had to fabricate all of our hardware – somehow the job got done, but often the results looked like a kindergarten art project gone bad.

 Today, there are so many pieces available at your local race dealer, the car building experience has transformed from duct tape and bailing wire to billet and strength. Really, you can bolt on about any manufactured part saving valuable construction time. As an added benefit, professionally manufactured parts make working on the car easy and efficient throughout the course of the year. During the ongoing maintenance that occurs over the course of the season a part made for the job saves a ton of time. Sometimes building a mount yourself saves money, but if it takes 3 nights to build it and you miss the first race then how much is really saved?

If you have built many cars, past experience assists you in making the choice of fabricating on your own, or paying a modest price for a part that is manufactured specifically for the job at hand. Luckily for racers, racing manufactures work on thin profits and often teams can buy a professional part for less money than if they were to make a one off part on their own. A manufactured part is nearly always cleaner, stronger and lighter weight. If it is your first car build, then buying parts can eliminate many frustrating nights. That said – if you can do a quality fabrication job and save money then I am all for it. If the savings of making an item in your shop helps you to get your team to more races, then building it yourself can be a great idea.

Recently, I answered a comment about a Facebook post – a customer was smack talking about building their own bump shims instead of buying a manufactured version. Hey, if you can make a professional part you should – saving money in racing is hard to do and if savings means you can make one more race then more power to the innovation of the garage fabricator. Making your own Bump Shims is not too difficult, but when you factor in the time, hassle, and gas costs spent chasing down materials a production made kit starts to look pretty good. It pays to consider the big picture before starting and take note that a professional kit will come with all the small details handled right out of the box.

A Professional Bump Shim Kit comes with an organizational case, a variety of shim thicknesses, and a billet wrench. The billet wrench reaches in between the spring coils making track changes quick and pain free. Download the JOES App KalcPack 1 and use the Bump ShimKalc to adjust your bump stops from your shop baseline setting. To download for free go here: JOES App Store

A case in point is a radiator mount. Anybody that has built a stock car has spent multiple nights making a mount to hold their expensive aluminum radiator in place. When it is time to put on the hood on the day of your first race, it is a painful to learn that the radiator is sticking above the hood line. Often, the need to re-fabricate the radiator mount is discovered after you frame has been powder coated. For the balance of the year, your team gets to endure the pain of looking at burnt paint and a cobbled up mount every time the hood is opened. Of course, fellow competitors are happy to toss a barb your way to cement the negative effects of choices made during the off season.

An adjustable radiator mount quickly adjusts from left to right. Multiple mounting holes ensure that your team can get the mounting height exactly right, even in the event of a body style change. The bolt on design makes quick work out of repairing damage.

Many series have shock rules that are designed to keep costs down. Other series utilize shock packages that come with a budget that would run a small city. If you have a pretty penny invested in shocks, then ensuring that your expensive hardware is mounted safely is a top priority. Nylon zip ties cost pennies a piece and hold shock canisters from falling off the car. With a zip tie the penalty is that your freshly painted frame gets scratched up and the cool anodize on your shock canister gets worn very quickly. Further, the smallest of dents in your expensive remote shock canister renders it useless. If you can build a nice canister mount in a reasonable amount of time then I say fabricate away. Before you start building four canister mounts to cover the corners of your car, it might pay to at least consider the parts that you can buy right off the shelf. Clean, quick, lightweight pieces that are optimally designed for quick adjustments at the track are features that are built into professional versions.


A Remote Canister Mount should have a rubber isolator reducing foaming. Doing it right protects your expensive investment and keeps your frame from getting scratched up.

I have seen body braces made out of scrap sheet metal strips, spare rod, or even scrap Lexan window material. These options work fine, but often the craftsmanship leaves a bit to be desired. And, if you want to make an adjustment to your fender width at the track then your team is burdened with the task of trying to fabricate in the pits without the luxury of the specialized tools that are available in the shop. Usually, manufacturing parts at the track creates a major panic due to the track schedule and fabricating in the field creates a ton of pressure at a time when teams should be focused on car speed.

Professional body mounts come fully prepared and ready to go. Depending on your type of racing you can chose a body brace that flexes with your fiberglass panels – their design pops the fiberglass right back into place after incidental contact. You can choose a rigid mount to hold your fenders steady in the wind created by high speeds improving aerodynamic performance. Whatever your choice, a manufactured version is ready right out of the package and installs in minutes. I am always amazed at how long it takes to fabricate something as simple as a fender brace. Still, if making body braces on your own is the money saving task that gets you to the track, then save some dollars and build away.

A solid body mount with an aluminum rod will hold your body panels rigidly in place at high speeds for aerodynamic performance. Flexible mounts pop fiberglass panels right back into position after incidental short track contact.

When it comes to spoiler supports I recommend purchasing a manufactured spoiler brace. Sure, you can make a support easy enough, but it is difficult to make adjustable spoiler braces in the shop. You should consider that you need 8 matching spoiler braces before you start fabricating on your own. A machined professional unit comes with all the needed hardware and is built for good looks and quick spoiler angle adjustments. I always recommend Lexan rear spoilers if allowed by your rules. The vision increase is dramatic. Spoiler braces often need support washers and manufactured aluminum versions provide a clean look while keeping your Lexan spoiler from cracking. A simple washer can provide support, so pick and choose which purchased items fit your budget.

 

Usually your rear spoiler needs eight supports. The ability to adjust your spoiler angle quickly can gain needed speed. Be sure to consider the big picture before jumping into making spoiler supports on your own. Often, you can purchase a professionally manufactured unit for less than you can make one on your own.

Hood pins work great to hold the hood in position especially if your hood is completely removable and lightweight. If you have a hinged hood or a steel hood, then purchasing manufactured hood hinges makes working on the car much easier. Billet versions lock in place and a quick tap releases the hood to close up the engine area quickly. Anyone that has been around racing long has had a hood fall on their head and the associated headache does little for productivity. If you can make good hood supports, then have a ball. Still – I am busy on that night and would choose to buy a pair. Manufactured hood hinge supports look good and have the strength to keep you working. Think about how many times you open the hood on a Saturday night?

Billet hood supports lock the hood in place in the open position, allowing for easy engine compartment access while saving your crew from bumps on the head. A quick tap on the hinge quickly releases the locking action. Mounting the hood to the car helps to prevent scratches on the roof and keeps your hood from flying off in the wind.

Your fire bottle is another area where buying a good mount can be beneficial. With care, you can make a solid mount for your fire bottle. Be sure to form fit any sheet metal and use hardware that handles the weight. Fire bottles are quite heavy and should you bounce off of something then you need to have a guarantee that the fire suppression bottle stays put so it can perform when you need it most. If you make fire bottle supports in your shop, think safety and be sure to use materials that can handle the heavy weight.

Mounting your fire bottle requires materials that handle the heavy weight of your fire suppression system. Safety first absolutely applies here.

A well designed shifter boot helps you to access the shifter lever bolts assisting in a quick engine or transmission change both at the track and in the shop. Making one is possible, but be sure to use fire resistant material for the boot. Safety items are simply not the area to save money so if you choose to make your own – do it right. For this project I would buy the best kit I can find.

A Shifter boot that snaps into place gives you quick access to the shifter bolts. Engine or transmission changes can be accomplished quickly. Fire resistant material offers protection and the reflective lining reduces cockpit temperatures.

Window nets can be difficult to mount on your own. Window nets need to be tight when buttoned up and the installation configuration can help your car to be more aerodynamic. If you make your own kit, be sure to paint steel parts preventing rust from deteriorating the window net fabric. A window net kit is a nice luxury when building or renovating a car. Safety first applies for sure. Ensure that the latch mechanism is easy to operate for both your team members and emergency personnel.

Window Net mounting hardware should be rigid, ensuring a window net that is tight. The latch mechanism needs to be easily operable for your crew as well as track safety workers.

Car wiring is a mystery for many teams. You can choose wire up your car and make simple mounts for your switches and lights. Be sure to use a red flip up cover for the ignition shut off. In an emergency such as a stuck throttle, an easily seen big flip up cover helps your driver to hit the switch shutting down the engine quickly. You can install switch components on your own if you have the time. Keep in mind that you need to purchase the switches that are rated and sized properly. Rubber boots keep moisture and dirt out of the switches helping your car to keep running at all times. Solder all the joints so that you finish races. Over time, crimped connectors, that don’t seal the wire connections with solder, can corrode and fail. Washing the car can fill the wiring connections and switches with dirt and grease. It is always tough to see the race leader loose speed coming off turn 4 because a 10 cent connection failed on the last lap. I have seen more than one wreck due to a car loosing speed at the wrong time. Wiring is an area where you can do things on your own. If you tackle the wiring, spend the few extra minutes to use solder and heat shrink at all connections.

Manufactured switch panels make wiring the car a breeze. Billet mounts professionally locate switch panels in easy reach of the driver. Bolt on mounts allow you to adjust location with worrying about cutting off a welded on tab. Always use a red flip-up cover so your driver can slap the ignition off quickly in the event of an emergency. Rubber sealed switches keep your car running when it matters most.

In the end, building a car with professional components may be the choice that keeps your car running for that next win. A well built car may attract a sponsor out of the grandstands helping you to fund your fun. Building your car right is what matters regardless of where the parts come from. Safety items must be installed without compromise. If you can build a professional part, without spending 2 weeks per project, then self fabricating can be a great idea to save cost. If you place a premium on constructing a car that is easy to maintain, then purchasing well designed manufactured parts may actually save you time and money over the course of a long year. At 2:00 a.m., on the night before the race, the light bulb moment comes as you enter the self imposed sleep deprivation period that comes from trying to do too much on your own. If every race weekend comes with a Friday night all nighter, then the lack of sleep can help you to determine when to buy and when to build. If your team members are tired on race day it does show up in your finish results.

If you fabricated too many parts on your own for this build season, then experience might guide you for the next time you are ready to construct a new car. The goal should always be to build a better car than you had before. Prior experience will guide the way and your luck will be based on your preparation creating sustainable opportunity.

Go Forward – Move Ahead

Jeff Butcher

3/1/12

The Nose Knows | Performance Racing Industry

The Nose Knows | Performance Racing Industry

Whizzing by me on the 2011 PRI Show floor, at the speed of a young Olympic sprinter, was racing industry icon Tony Tobias. Tony had someone to please and moved quickly to meet the need with a sense of urgency that his customers have come to rely upon – he truly enjoys pleasing all.  He literally ran at full sprint to accomplish his mission when most would chose to casually saunter across the million square feet that is PRI Orlando.  

Pushing around 80% of 100 years, Tobias continuously exudes energy at well over Einstein’s mandated universe speed limit of 186,000 miles per second, otherwise known as the speed of light. In racer terms, the speed of light is 700 million miles per hour. At that speed, bump drafting is highly discouraged. Tony’s mental horsepower is immeasurable as we have yet to construct a dynamometer that can record the synapse speeds racing through the brain of the one and only Tony Tobias. Tony is the Vince Lombardi of the racing community – a proven leader for sure.

Tony’s long tenure, at the insanely well made Racecar Engineering Magazine, provides a documented example of how one individual can maximize a business brand by leveraging their personal brand. Tobias proudly introduces himself to new faces with the self imposed moniker “Tony the Nose”.  He leaves an indelible mark and when he meets someone for just a few seconds, he is remembered. “The Nose” connects himself to his company. He combines his personal brand with the branding of Racecar Engineering. Elephants never forget, “The Nose” is never forgotten.

You can count on Tony to greet you with his glowing smile. The energy he exudes is contagious, it is powerful. Why walk when you can run? Tony is full speed – full time. Tobias is a noteworthy face in the racing niche and provides a human example that everyone can learn from. Racecar Engineering and Tony are one. Tony has created a personal brand that confidently announces his contributions without the need of a high pressure sales pitch. The result is a successful branding effort that subconsciously leaves a memorable and positive experience for his customers – his friends. With few words, Tony ingrains his synergized brand deep into the minds of those he touches. Racecar Engineering is a magazine – Tony Tobias is genuine and he crafts his brand into the framework of his book in a caring and seamless fashion. Think of Tony and you instinctively think of Racecar Engineering.

Tobias is always on the move and gives people what they want. His warm welcome makes all on his path feel better than before he arrived. His approach is to partner by cultivating relationships through integrity, energy, and devotion. Tobias has zero need to sell. His customers are his friends – they are his extended family. He proudly takes a God given physical attribute and utilizes “The Nose” to create a fun and memorable experience. Quality marketing, in its simplest form, is defined as leaving a memorable positive impression. Tony is having the time of his life and has created a coveted branding story by simply allowing others to witness Tony being himself. The deal is closed through identification of need. Solutions are offered verses needing to be sold. Sales people sell – Tony delivers.

Enthusiastically embracing new ideas has made Tobias relevant over the long haul – he has laid the ground work, in earnest, to always be relevant. A quick review ofhis Facebook photo albums displays a man having a blast every single second – the 10 year old boy inside is easily seen. Tony is an avid social media user and his approach to life gives us all an opportunity to learn from his dynamic and ever evolving adventures.

Tony has spent his lifetime creating an individual brand that is remembered. His lifestyle is his brand. By combining his profession with play, Tony proves that passion and fun invoke a high level of success in the workplace.

To create the unique marketing plan, that you can admire and cultivate, taking note of what Tony Tobias accomplishes will give you a proven template to emulate. Tony demonstrates that enjoying life results in overall success at home and in the office.  A complete well rounded life creates a universe full of memorable impressions. If you knew the Tony Tobias formula, then you would be sought after as the one that knows. Memorable marketing is what “The Nose” knows. Being yourself is the one tool that you always control, once you believe that you create your own memorable impressions, then you will be your own unique version of - the knows.

Tony Tobias, Racecar Engineering Magazine and Autosport Engineering Show.

Tony Tobias 5 pts

Thank you Jeff.

I am speechless, a first for me!!!. All I do is get to meet the nicest guys who also share my passion for racing. I also get paid as well.

This blog has given my the most happiness I have ever had in my working life, apart from whipping Jeremy Shaw at the first  PRI media race two years ago, took second place off him on last lap!!!

Seriously this great businees is the most important  part of my life, I am blessed.

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Jeff Butcher 6 pts

Well Tony - great inspiration makes for fun writing. Thanks for providing a positive example. I strive to live up to the bar you have set. Thanks so much for all you do.

Jeff Butcher

Up On The Wheel

Flying has always been on the list of things I would rather avoid. Of course, any dream destination becomes possible due to the miracle of modern flight. The travel aversion is derived from being in a cramped space that always seems to have the amenities a finger tip out of reach. Control is taken and as passengers, the drink cart is either too far away or bashing into the back of your already cramped elbow. Cocktail please!


While traveling from Seattle to Orlando for the 2011 Performance Racing Industry Tradeshow, I had a bucket load of time to experience the choices made by the engineers of the new Boeing 737 that was to carry us from point A to point B. Throw in the point C detour through New Jersey and internal debate time allowed me an eternity to wonder what engineers consider as the definition of “comfortable”. Plane engineers are forced to make compromises as their stock market driven corporations need to squeeze in extra seats striving for every penny that can pour into the profit column. The cramped space is an issue. But, the real problem is the loss of control. Somehow, my plane seat clarified my understanding that drivers must feel in control in order to win. I will say the plane engineers did a bang up job making sure the jet engines were attached securely to the wings.

My bonus Jersey Shore extended travel time provided ample opportunity for me to think about how to help drivers feel in control of their in car surroundings. Being bolted down to the seat like the Statue of Liberty on Ellis Island certainly defines a loss of control. Lady Liberty has been strapped down a long time – I hope she is happy with her position. Like airline travel, race driver amenities are predetermined and comfort choices are decided as soon as the belts are pulled tight and the engine roars to life.

The glare off my in flight TV was accentuated by the screaming 4 year old in front of me that made sure to shake the headrest TV screen straining my ability to absorb the commands of Captain Kirk yelling at Scotty that he needed “More Power”. Kirk must have been a crew chief in a former life. My poorly positioned in flight TV can easily be compared to gauges in a racecar. Mounting gauges so they can be seen at 150 MPH with an intuitive glance is a little more important that watching reruns of overly dramatic actors in Hollywood. Then again, drivers do sign autographs and smile for the camera while saying how much they love everyone. So, perhaps the red carpet at driver introductions is about the same as the content on American Idol where Ryan Seacrest waited in fear of the Simon ambush that came every week. The comparisons are endless – Bush race competitors attacking doctor’s makes for racing’s version of reality TV. Long live the “E” network.

All race team members are backyard engineers. Lucky teams are graced with college educated engineers. When building a car, are you just placing the gauges where they look good or are you considering the viewing angles and importance of each gauge?

Prioritizing gauge position is a choice that goes beyond centering them on the sheet metal dash.

An easy gauge mounting tip is to strap the driver’s helmet to the seat in race position. Needed safety devices prevent drivers from moving their heads from side to side. With the helmet strapped in place, tape a string to the center of the visor or tear off and tape the other string end to the dash. Place the dash side string where it runs straight from the helmet shield field of vision making sure the line of site is maintained throughout the steering radius. The most important gauge goes in the priority position and is located so a steering wheel spoke never blocks the drivers’ view of the gauge. Make sure the string stays straight through the turning path of the steering wheel. Follow the same routine with a second string for gauge 2 and mount the priority 2 gauge in a fashion that allows clear vision with an instant glance. If compromises must be made, make the required compromises on priority gauge 3 and 4. Running a string from the helmet location to the dash will show you, in advance, the line of site obstacles that you must overcome – and the string method can save you from drilling 2.5” holes in the wrong spot potentially destroying new sheet metal due to short cutting the planning process.

To keep your diver in control, switch panels need to be within easy reach. With the driver strapped in, all switches need to be ergonomically placed so the driver can instinctively activate all switches instantaneously. Red Flip Up Aircraft covers are mighty handy if your team is hit with the misfortune of a stuck throttle. Sudden losses of oil pressure benefits from a Flip Up switch cover potentially saving you thousands in repair costs. Even a 1/10th of a second time savings can save a pile of money if the driver can hit that switch cover quickly when the oil pressure drops. In the event of an on track mishap, ignition switches and start buttons need to be located for quick and natural operation. All switches need to be well marked. Often, drivers get into multiple types of cars and well marked switches are a must. Knowing, instinctively, the function of each switch falls in the safety category and mounting switches within easy reach is an area where compromise is a flagrant foul that is easily remedied by any backyard engineer.

Aircraft Switch Covers help drivers to instantly turn off their cars in the event of a stuck throttle or sudden loss of oil pressure. Easy access can save equipment and improves safety. A quick flip can save severe engine damage. Rubber coating on the switches seals out moisture and dirt, helping the electrical system to work when it matters most.

Battery disconnect switch location is vital as well. Often, I have seen team members turn on the main power switch as a poor mounting location puts it out of the reach of the driver. In the event of a wreck or fire, drivers need to turn off the battery power quickly so mounting location must be within easy reach of the driver.

A red handle makes finding the battery disconnect switch easier for track saftey workers. Large engraved On/Off letters identify the off position clearly so safety workers and crew members can visually see the power is off in the event of trouble. Isolating the battery during the week helps to ensure that your battery maintains a full charge.

All series should mandate a common battery disconnect mounting location that is easily accessible by outside track safety workers. We race for fun and something as simple as the battery disconnect switch location should be “engineered” verses being placed where it is just easy. Utilizing a 2 pole battery disconnect switch is highly advised and really is a requirement if you run an alternator. Turning the red handle to the off position on your battery disconnect should shut down electrical power to the entire car. While these things seem simple, their importance grows when you have been around racing for your entire life. After many years in the industry, safety issues can and do happen to people you know and incidents are not just headlines in a racing paper. Thinking out the battery switch location takes little time. Cultivate an environment that makes safety a priority for every team member regardless of their experience.

A sealed 2-Pole Battery disconnect switch keeps dirt and moisture out of switch. The small terminals are designed to disconnect alternator power and the large terminals isolate your electrical system from the main positive lead on the battery for safety.

As I write on the plane, my laptop battery is fading. I am past deadline and must get my writing done on this flight. Luckily, this plane has a power outlet to keep my laptop working. I know the outlet is down there but, I find myself fumbling around trying to get my cord plugged in and the outlet location is, well it is “awkward” to say the least. It is fantastic that there is a power outlet close by and I am happy I am not limited to 2 hours of laptop battery power. Still, how can an engineer pick the location for my nearest outlet in a spot that would be illegal in 15 states? Somehow, the outlet is between the legs of the woman next to me? Even though I know the outlet is there, getting my cord plugged in is extremely difficult. Plugging in my cord between the legs of a woman next to me couldn’t have possibly been the only way available outlet location on this big plane?

I asked the nice skirt clad lady to plug the cord in for me. It is taking her awhile. It’s ok, the show is much better than the in flight movie on my baby shaken glared filled screen, I have the entire flight in front of me for my red face to return to normal. Since we land in New Jersey, maybe this is my unplanned audition to replace “The Situation”? Really, an engineer with a college degree could only think of placing the outlet where Hugh Hefner keeps his frequent flyer miles? While entertaining, I think we as backyard engineers can use the airplane outlet example to lay out our cockpits for optimal use.

For drivers to win often, they need to feel in control. Their hands are on the steering wheel for the entire night. Locating the steering wheel in perfect position will give your driver the feeling of control. Adjusting the steering wheel is a time consuming effort and every team should find the perfect steering mounting position for their star driver. Steering wheel spacers can easily be installed and close tolerance steering wheel disconnects are mandatory. A solid steering system, free from slop, connects the driver to the track and pure feedback increases speed and reduces fatigue. Steering wheel spacers are built in a variety of thicknesses and even small quarter inch increments can be the difference that creates optimal feel and control. I always recommend large 17” steering wheels, mounted close to the chest to reduce back strain. 15” wheels are quite common. Adding even an inch in diameter reduces strain and helps drivers to stay fresh. Performance is improved if teams spend the time to visualize mounting the steering shaft properly.

Mounting your steering wheel in a comfortable position keeps your driver there at the end. Spacers come in a variety of thichnesses allowing your team to fine tune the steering wheel position. Even if you driver ate too many hamburgers during the week, you can quickly change the spacer for optimal comfort.

An adjustable steering column mount makes it easy for drivers to adjust the wheel while they are right in the seat. Column mounting experimentation allows the driver to find the best angle and wheel position. An angle adjustment may require another try with bolt on spacers. Trial and error coupled with minimal effort and teamwork will provide needed driver comfort.

A bolt on steering column mount is adjustable side to side and up and down. Drivers can make quick adjustments while they are sitting in the seat so that they can dial in the column position perfectly.

A leg support bolted to the steering column gives your driver a comfortable place to rest their leg. On a long race the effort required to hold the weight of a leg for 150 laps increases fatigue. Comfort here provides needed energy that can be used elsewhere helping your driver win more races. The G forces on left hand turns are handled easily with a well positioned padded leg support.


Along with size, drivers need to decide what creates the best feel. If you go to a dirt track 99% of the steering wheels will be uncoated and drilled for weight savings. Dirt drivers insist on lightweight everything. Even the added weight of rubber coating on their steering wheel effects performance. Tradition dictates no rubber coated wheels on dirt.

When dealing with Asphalt teams, it is rare to see a steering wheel without a rubber coating of some sort. The rubber provides added grip and the tacky feel gives drivers the control they need. Vibrations are absorbed and chassis feedback through the steering column is enhanced. The standard on asphalt includes the use of rubber coated wheels and the opposite is true on dirt. I sometimes wonder if dirt and asphalt teams should experiment to see if they can learn from other forms of racing. You never see coated wheels at a dirt track and you never see bare aluminum wheels at an asphalt track. Maybe it is time for the different groups to see what the other side is thinking?

Coated wheels are common on asphalt tracks and a tacky grip helps drivers to maintain control. Dirt cars rarely use rubber grip wheels and most often go with bare aluminum for ultimate weight savings. Maybe the two groups of racers should get together and discuss why they take the opposite approach. I think sharing information between dirt track and asphalt teams would open up an entire new area of learning for both groups.

When your dream destination is a road that circles about until the wind unfurls a checkered flag directing your team to Victory Lane, then taking time to understand the decisions that created the non-stop winning route will keep you on schedule to repeat the journey. Engineering to win is simply a compilation of choices that provide the individual ideas needed to propel groups towards consistency. Small steps guide predetermined construction elements that produce a winning routine. Planning reveals the path to your desired destination. Once your team sees the winning path, engineering to win becomes the programmed norm and the desire to win is transforms competing into a tradition of winning.

Go Forward – Move Ahead

Jeff Butcher

12/1/11

Oil Flow to Go

Engines are expensive. Helping them last is important for every race team and finding extra horsepower is always a gift that keeps on giving. For horsepower and longevity, the oil system pumps black gold through the veins of your car while facing extremely demanding conditions. Dry sump pumps are the heart of many race engines and understanding a few basics will allow the heart of your car to extend the life of your engine while maximizing power.

A Remote Oil Filter Mount allows teams to locate the oil filter nearly anywhere. A mount that rotates will compensate for bars that run on an angle so you can keep the filter level.

AC Nutter is an engine builder that builds high horsepower engines that have won numerous championships. AC has earned his reputation as a top builder through hard work and self learned creativity. Nutter engines include many ideas developed by AC through his years of hands on experience with top race teams. To support his Nutter engines, AC felt he could help his teams by designing and manufacturing his own dry sump pumps. The combination of being an engine builder and a pump manufacture gives him a unique perspective in understanding how to feed engines with oil properly.

What are your thoughts on a dry sump venting system?

Nutter:

With a dry sump, the vent system must be designed to allow the engine to breath. A proper vent system prevents leaks and keeps precious oil in the car. Too often, tracks are oiled down due to venting system problems. With a three stage pump, it is a good idea to vent the engine valve covers along with the oil tank. You can use breathers on the valve covers or run a line from the valve cover to the tank and use the same vent for both the engine and the dry sump tank. I agree with AC and from my experience vent systems experience less trouble when you run a #12 line from the valve cover back to the tank and let the system breath with a vent back at the dry sump tank.

If you need to vent your engine at the valve cover, a breather kit can easily be welded at a location that allows teams to install the engine without impacting chassis bars.
Nutter:

With a 4 stage dry sump pump, only the tank needs to be vented due to the added vacuum created by the additional stage. Utilizing a small baffled breather tank, with a vent on the top, nearly eliminates venting issues. Be sure to mount the breather tank as high as possible and as far to the left as you can. Connect the dry sump tank to your breather with quality hose. G force will help force oil that collects in the vent tank back down into the dry sump tank. With the breather tank mounted high, there is enough line length to allow gravity to keep the line clear so air can pass through easily. Be sure to avoid any droops in the vent hose to prevent oil from pooling in a low spot. Pooled up oil in a line can prevent the block the vent creating an oil mess that can potentially take you out of a race.

A good Oil Filter Cutter allows you to quickly cut open paper style filters. A quick inspection allows teams to find particles and debris that may indicate a serious engine problem. Paper filters are excellent at filtering out fine particles and are often used in conjucntion with cleanable mesh style filters.

With a dry sump – what do you recommend for line sizes?

Nutter:

The line size question is a big one with many variables and lots of diffenent answers. The most common system would be #12 lines from the pan to the pump. #12 is used to feed oil to the engine with a #16 line to provide a free flow of oil to the tank. Often, I think a #10 line from the pan to the pump is a better way as it provides more overall vacuum and improved performance.

How many stages do you need in a dry sump pump?

Nutter:

My first answer is to let your engine builder decide. Most engines that require a dry sump are in the high end category and your engine builder will understand all the variables that apply to your type of racing. Rules come into play as well and an experienced engine builder can design a dry sump package that meets the needs or your rules, race series and budget. On the surface, this seems like an easy question but there is much to consider and your engine builder will have a philosophy that creates an oiling system that meets the needs of your engine package and series requirements.

A three stage pump supplies ample oil to the engine. A four stage pump creates more vacuum. The added vacuum moves oil away from the rotating crankshaft assembly, producing more horespower.

For a general answer, a three stage dry sump system works as well as a four stage system when it comes to prolonging engine life. 3 stages are plenty adequate to provide a steady supply of fresh oil to the engine. 3 stages obviously saves cost over additional stages as the pump cost is less and the car plumbing is simplified. Your team saves the work and the expense of added lines and AN fittings – those things add up in the cost column.

However, four or more stages will create more horsepower. 3 stages supply oil to your engine just fine – the added stages create vacuum in the oil pan and crank case area. Vacuum causes the oil to lie down in the pan to be efficiently picked up by the dry sump pump scavenging system. With the excess oil pulled down in the pan, oil is not picked up by the rotating crank and rods that spin at high RPM. Reducing the amount of oil that gets wrapped around the rotating assembly, results in horsepower gains. The engine can simply spin more freely.

Oil splashing around the pan and onto the rotating assembly robs horsepower. A fourth dry sump stage creates vacuum and reduces the amount of oil that splashes around inside your engine allowing the rotating assembly to rotate freely. Oil is thick and viscous. If the crank assembly has to beat its way through a pig pool of oil it will have to work harder. The beating action reduces oil life and can cause unwanted foaming. Basically, it is easier to walk down the street than it is to walk neck deep in a swimming pool. By removing oil from the pan, by utilizing vacuum created by the dry sump pump, you will find gains in horsepower. In our testing, we have found as much as 12 additional horsepower with a 4 stage dry sump pump as the rotating assembly can spin without having to fight through a pool of oil in the bottom of the pan.

Creating 8 to 12 inches of vacuum is all that is required to keep the rotating assembly free of excess oil. If your engine runs low tension oil rings you might need 18 inches of vacuum, or more, to keep oil away from the rotating assembly. Your engine builder can assist in making decisions. Something as simple as changing oil ring tension has an effect on the dry sump pump system and the vacuum needs are completely different depending on the ring design you run. Customers will experience less engine trouble if they recognize that a high performance engine is a package and even small changes can be interrelated – one thing affects another and each change needs to be thought completely through.

What do you consider in a dry sump system?

Nutter:

When using dry sump pumps you need to consider the entire oil system. Just a few considerations are dry sump reserve tank size, vent tank type and size, number of stages needed, plumbing line sizes and more. Pan design is a very important element. When it comes to oil pan designs, you want to use a pan that is as wide and deep as possible.

A Dry Sump Breather Tank should be mounted high so oil can easily flow back to the tank. Lines should be routed free of droops so oil can't pool up and plug the venting system. This tank has a drain valve in the bottom so teams can verify that oil is not backing up in the oil system.
Scavenge filtering and engine oil filters must be considered. I prefer oil filters without a bypass. The dry sump pump mounting and drive system varies from car to car and choices must be made that ensure that your dry sump pump is mounted securely with a drive system that will perform 100% of the time. Nearly every dry sump pump on the market is of good quality. I recommend that teams purchase what they can afford and design an overall system that mates up with their rules while placing emphasis on their individual budget. It does little good to install a system that you can’t afford to maintain. In general, the more you spend on a dry sump pump then the more expensive it is going to be to maintain.

What to your recommend for oil filtering?

Nutter:

Paper filters clean oil just fine. Cleanable filters provide the added benefit of allowing you to easily check your engine for debris. Early identification of particles in the filter can save big money on repairs. I like a 60 micron filter with no bypass. If the filter plugs, the oil pressure will drop and your gauge will warn you that there is a problem. The same warning gauge has no way of telling you that dirt is going through the engine so a bypass is a not something I use on my engines.

For the scavenge filter I like a 60 micron filter for the initial start up on a new engine. After a proper warm up, I install a 100 micron scavenge filter before he car goes out on the track.

What about dry sump servicing?

Nutter:

Anytime you freshen or repair the engine you should service the pump. Dry sump pumps are designed so that there is not much that goes wrong. Basically, go through the pump whenever you go through the engine so that you can make sure that the pump was not damaged by a past engine problem. If you have just freshened your engine, then of course you want to protect your investment by ensuring the pump is up to spec.

What about engine oil?

Nutter:

One thing I believe in is that on most engines I like to use thin oils. You should certainly consult with your engine builder but, for my stuff 20 weight oil is most common and 30 weight is the absolute maximum.

Butcher:

By thinking out your dry sump system, you can increase your engine life and find more horsepower. The investment pays off in less rebuilds and improved performance. If your rules allow it then a dry sump pump is highly recommended. Quality oil can be thin and a vent system that supplies clean air to your engine will help your car to flow straight to the front.

Go Forward – Move Ahead
Jeff Butcher

10/1/11

Keeping It Cool

As cars go faster, air openings feed engines with an ever decreasing amount of air. Watching Bobby Allison slide his Penske Matador through the turns on a half mile or at Daytona was cool – the engine had plenty of air for cooling and the Matador nose could double as a snow plow during a heavy Michigan winter. In those days, the front opening on the car was so big you could use a racecar grill for a BBQ cook top that would hold enough steaks to feed the entire Allison clan.

Adjustable radiator mounting brackets allow for quick experimentation. The roll bar clamp on brackets lets teams adjust the mounting angle quickly. Down force and radiator surface area can be optimized in seconds. Over time, teams can identify the optimal mounting position utilizing hardware that is designed to promote easy adjustment.

Going back in time, stock cars were built to bump, grind and to slide around - aero down force was reserved for Formula 1 and Indy. Dents in the fenders had little effect on speed. Today, an 1/8” variation on a stock car front fender width can take the car from loose to an aero push with the slightest of bumps. Grill of today perform only one hot dog at a time.

A Penske Matador, with an Allison at the wheel, could actually use muscle to power on to victory lane. Cars that rely down force are required to baby their way around the track and the grill opening feeds a finely metered amount of air to the radiator. While old school was more fun, it seems we are stuck with finding more aero advantage and driver muscle is reserved for Sharpie’s and autograph lines.

Since it seems unlikely that stock car grills will be coming out of ’55 Chevy’s anytime soon, teams face the challenge of keeping the engine at optimal operating temperature while maintaining an anorexic grill opening. The optimal grill shape - thin with nothing other than well placed tape directs air precisely. You would think stock cars were getting ready for the Red Carpet and Hollywood Paparazzi verses lining up for the starting grid.

When it comes to the coolant system, proper radiator mounting is an area where cooling can be maximized and speed can be gained. From experience, with plenty of room for debate depending on the car type and track, 7 degrees of forward mounting angle at the top of the radiator increases the radiator surface area while producing additional front down force. Air ducting from the grill opening needs to be tightly sealed and shaped properly to provide maximum cool air while traveling through a minimum space.

Radiator duct panels should be wide and flat (nearly parallel to the ground) at the bottom. Extending the bottom panel of the radiator duct work out at the nose piece is a “semi-legal cheat” that helps seal the nose area of the car with a “belly pan” that is disguised as radiator duct work.

Often, teams build the grill duct work the same width as the radiator. By extending the width of the bottom panel at the front of the car, you can gain some down force by using the bottom sheet metal radiator duct panel, at the nose piece, wider than the radiator. The duct work sides can still seal at the grill opening extending back to the radiator. Proper radiator duct shape enhances air movement for efficient cooling. “Stretching” the bottom panel outside of the grill width gains you a few inches of belly pan and it is likely that it won’t be noticed by the competition and often gets through tech without issue.

At the nose, the top panel of the radiator duct work should start nearly parallel to the ground with a few degrees of upward angle for the first 6” or so to reduce lift. The top panel transition, after the first 6” or so, should smoothly round up to the top of the radiator producing maximum cooling while producing extra down force. Working the ducting shape in your favor can provide for better down force numbers while improving cooling efficiency.

Since reliance on aero for handling is here to stay, then teams must find ways to manage consistent and controllable engine temperatures while striving for the minimum front end air opening. A variety of options are available to keep things cool in the heat of battle. Like all things in racing, finding many small areas of advantage works much better than hoping for a fix that comes from a single magic source.

IR pyrometers can help teams to identify hot spots providing an opportunity to direct air through duct work to critical areas in the cooling system. Isolating potential hot spots with an IR pyrometer can display areas where more air flow or improved radiator duct shapes will help to drop water temperatures.

An Infrared Pyrometer can be utilized to instantly measure cooling system adjustments. As teams experiment with their coolant system efforts, the IR pyrometer can be used to spot check multiple system locations with precision. Improvements can be recorded and experiments that have a detrimental effect can be quickly rectified by taking multiple measurements with an IR pyrometer.

When experimenting with radiator ducting shapes an IR pyrometer can help you determine if you are making gains. Assuming you are at the same track, with the same outside ambient temperature, you can take an IR reading on piece of sheet metal that is temporarily mounted behind the radiator and in front of the engine. The is plenty of room for error with this method but, if you can repeat the number of laps, time it takes to get to the car, outside air temps and as many variables as possible then you can find improvements over time by taking an IR reading on your test sheet metal and compare temperature changes based on the changes you make.

Examples of cut and try items for improved cooling are radiator mounting angle, radiator duct shapes, grill tape and more. Since short track racers have limited engineering and testing time of Cup teams, it may take weeks to learn which experiments are producing positive results. Still, gains can be found if you are willing to cut and try and spend more time than your competition.

Freeze plug adaptors allow racers to tap the water system, changing flow as needed. With the right hardware water flow can be managed to meet any requirement.

Quality water temperature gauges will provide you great information relating to the average temperature of your coolant. If the IR pyrometer helps you to identify a hot spot in the engine compartment then directing air precisely can help to lower the overall under hood temperature created by outside forces. Saving money on a water temp gauge may seem like a good idea but to produce long lasting horsepower your team must work with your engine builder to identify operating temperatures that produce maximum horsepower. Accuracy is needed to monitor temps to create the ultimate horsepower available.

Locating your water temp gauge probe in the ideal position can help your team to find the “ideal” measuring location. Temperature Tee’s can be installed in line in selected water hoses helping you to measure how your innovative ideas relating to water temperature are performing. For testing purposes, more than one water temp gauge can be installed and your team can use multiple Temp Tee fittings in line on various hoses. Multiple water temp gauges can be used for testing so your team can get take measurements of the water system at critical locations. By checking your water temps in strategic locations, your team can visually see how water treatment ideas are working out.

Temperature Tee's come in a variety of line sizes and allow water temp gauge probes to be located in nearly any location in the cooling system. Successful teams experiment by connecting multiple Temperature Tee's in several locations. Using  multiple water temp gauges at key system locations can help you to sort out coolant system issues.

Some engine builders route engine water to manage temperatures at precise locations. Freeze plug adaptors provide easy access to tap into the water system and hoses can be easily installed to route water as needed.

Coolant additives can help the longevity of your cooling system components. Anti corrosives and lubricating properties can be a big benefit and even save money over the long haul. Water cooling claims made by additive manufactures should be considered by each customer and their specific needs – a well designed system is needed and simply pouring in an additive will do little to fix a system that is designed poorly.

Ported Water Outlet fittings, at the intake manifold, are another area where the coolant system can be easily tapped to improve water flow. Adding a Thermo Spacer provides a clean mounting location for water temp senders right at the engine intake – temps taken as water enters your engine provide a great way to verify if your water cooling efforts are headed in the right direction. The additional ports, in Ported Water Outlet Fittings, allow racers to direct water flow to meet nearly any requirement.

Ported Water Outlet fittings can be located right at the intake manifold and are a reliable place to monitor cooling system improvements. Extra ports allow for a quick tap of the water system to directing needed coolant in a simple fashion. An O-ring seal ensures that your system stays water tight.

On cool nights, more grill tape may be needed to get your engine up to operating temp. Heat is horsepower and I can think of many early spring nights where the grill opening was nearly sealed off completely. The added front down force made the car faster as long the corresponding amount of rear down force was added. Down force nearly always wins out over aero drag on short tracks.

A water expansion tank with a Billet Cap Flange has the muscle to perform. Utilizing high pressure lines and quality water coolant components allows teams to run maximum cap pressures. A Billet cap connections ensures a perfect seal as compared to stamped aluminum cap flanges that can fail under pressure.

Optimizing horsepower, by keeping the water temperature in heat range that creates the most horsepower, is managed on a race by race basis. Tape, jetting, fans and the like are tailored based on the conditions that vary each week – sometimes each hour.

A Thermo Spacer, used at the intake manifold, provides easy access to the water system. Creativity can be maximized while maintaining a clean and professional installation. O-Rings keep the water in your engine so your team can focus on making more power.

Competition gets tougher every week and teams that strive to find the smallest gains win more often. I deal with Cup teams that have custom parts made that save only 1 gram of weight. As short track racers, we often think of saving pounds at a time. Cup teams use the finest resolution possible and think in terms of saving a single gram. Over time, the single grams saved pile up and the result is a car that is as light as possible. The same philosophy applies to the cooling system. The teams that strive to explore cooling system improvements will beat the heat and their teams will run consistently hot.

Go Forward – Move Ahead

Jeff Butcher

8/1/11