Instant Center Adjustment

Why do we care about the Instant Center in the front suspension? We know our car builder spent plenty of time engineering the proper roll center. Instant Center of the Left and Right side front suspension are a piece in the puzzle that creates Roll Center.

Since I am opposed to over engineering at the track, I prefer to focus on Instant Centers and adjust them with the same freedom that is applied to adjusting the rear roll center. “Just try it” is my philosophy when it comes to adjusting the Instant Center at the track.

Before you start moving parts around it does pay to understand the geometry that creates instant centers. I like to explain mechanical design by using words like “stuff” or “things” instead of complicating simple topics with big phrases such as “dynamic roll propagated via G-Force induced dynamic wheel loading”. Really, we can explain stuff by simply understanding that there is more front end travel at a high speed high banked track than you would find if you set up some orange cones in a parking lot.

Timing your suspension travel by balancing spring rate, roll bars and shocks with the leverage created by Instant Centers can maximize your Big Bar set up. For that matter - any set up is benefited by experimenting with Instant Center locations.

Instant Centers are easy to visualize. You find the little spot the same way on both sides of the front of the car. For this review we will take a snap shot of the RF suspension. Your A-Arm is bolted to the frame via an ear that is welded to the frame horn. Your lower control arm bolts onto the cross member. You have a spindle pin and the tire size sets the height of the wheel center off the ground. Your A-Arm is about 7” to 12” long and your lower control arm is probably around 16” to 18” long for your typical late model that has a 63.0” track width. Basically, if you have a stock car, the parts that create the Instant Center are similar regardless of your brand of car.

My goal is here is to eliminate the fear that can be associated with the big pile of details that create the magical Roll Center. Really, roll center is often found at about 1.5” off the ground to 2.5” off the ground for most cars – give or take an inch. The left to right location moves all over the place depending A-Arm length. Of course, as soon as you run the suspension through travel the roll center moves about. With a huge roll bar, the rules have changed and once the car has been pulled down to the ground with your insanely stiff rebound shocks, the roll center and instant centers move around much less as compared to when we had a pair of 350’s on the coilovers and an 1-1/8” bar.

Big Bars require new thinking. Since planting the nose piece to the ground is the new norm, then it would seem that the suspension layout is less important – or is it? With the nose piece held to the ground by huge rebound numbers and a sway bar that nearly eliminates body roll, then why do we care about roll centers and instant centers at all?

While the movements are less, they are still there. We still have dive, roll and plenty of bumps. But, all of those movements happen faster and the distance traveled, once the nose pieces is sucked down, is less. With this “new” information how can we make an effective adjustment utilizing Instant Centers along with shocks and springs?

It pays to think about the mechanical leverage of the Instant Center. Adjusting the Instant Center can be the subtle adjustment that compensates for the reduced actual center of the corner travel induced by giant sway bars. Since the Instant Center is 2 simple lines per side we can visualize it easily. The first line is drawn through the center of the upper ball joint and extending through the inner pivot. Be sure to find the true center of the ball joint provided by your ball joint manufacturer. The second line extends from the lower ball joint through the inner pivot on the lower control arm. Extend both lines until they intersect. Boom – the Instant Center is created. Through suspension travel the intersect point moves based on the length, angle and connection point of the upper A-Arm and the lower control arm. See the accompanying photo for the visual and you will see that Instant Centers are pretty simple to understand.

The Instant Center is easy to visualize right at the track. Simply follow the lines of the upper and lower arms until they meet. Be sure to utilize the actual ball joint center provided by your ball joint manufacturer.

Now examine the RF Instant Center and how we can use mechanical leverage to our advantage. Let’s assume our track width is 63.0”.  If the hypothetical RF Instant Center is 4 inches off the ground and 3 feet left of the vehicle centerline we end up with about 49.5” (close enough) of leverage. If we make the RF A-Arm Longer and keep the same connection point on the frame ear pivot we move the RF Instant Center more to the left. The longer A-Arm gets flatter and it takes the imaginary line longer to run into the line from the lower control arm. The change lowers the RF Instant Center as well. So, hypothetically, let say we moved the RF Instant Center to left about a foot and down 2” (Since we are starting from a known baseline all we care about is the direction of the adjustment – we can repeat the change by tracking the slugs we use).

 A-Arm length and mounting height have a dramatic effect on Instant Center Location. Carrying an inventory of A-Arm lengths gives you more Instant Center Adjustment choices right at the track.

The longer lever arm created by the adjustment scenario in the prior paragraph compresses the RF spring more than it would have in our baseline set up. The car speed and banking provide the same amount of force, but the longer lever creates more travel at the RF. Really – it is like running a softer RF spring when the chassis rolls. Lowering the RF Instant Center promotes more roll. The longer lever from the Center of Gravity gives an additional boost to roll.

Bolt on tube sections make quick work out of changing A-arm length. Moving Instant Centers at the track is an adjustment you should try more often. The bolt on tube section is a rigid advantage on snouts where the A-Arm wraps around the frame.

Here is where the fun starts – let’s keep it simple. You can draw your suspension and do the actual math and record it for future reference. For now – let’s just think about the concept. Moving the RF Instant Center to the Left effectively softens the RF spring through chassis roll. But, if you want a softer RF spring, why not just put one in? Well, this is where you need to think about the corner entry, when the car is relatively traveling in a straight line, and the corner middle where the car is in full roll. If you balance the Instant Centers, and consider all of the compromises that come with race car set ups, you can make subtle adjustments by manipulating the timing of suspension compression (corner entry) and suspension roll (corner middle).

When your car is going perfectly straight, the giant sway bar is doing about zero. If the car is going straight and you smash the brakes then the ultra soft springs you have up there may not hold the car for a stable entry. You can fix the problem by adding stiffer springs for straight line (entry) braking, but then the middle may suffer due to the stiffer springs you thought you needed? From your baseline, adding front spring to get some help with corner entry stability coupled with moving Instant Center to the left creates a lever to help the car roll – now you get help under braking without suffering more spring rate during roll. The game is in balancing the Instant Center with the entry “dive” and the mid-corner “roll”.

Your car builder has the baseline figured out when it comes to Instant Center and Roll Center. But, track conditions change and driver styles vary. Maybe you can utilize Instant Center changes just like you use the Panhard bar? Try it and see if “Mikey likes it”.

The adjustment idea I like best for Instant Center manipulation is to use the same length A-Arm but simply move the upper frame pivot point up and down to get your desired result. I prefer moving the pivot point of the upper A-Arm for subtle adjustments. The benefit of moving the upper pivot point is that hardware is available to make it easy, you can make subtle changes, you avoid messing up the bump steer and the camber curves stay in line. Your car builder spent a mountain of time and testing on your baseline front end design so it pays to make adjustments that are subtle verses stretching the design parameters to extremes.

Using a slotted ear and slugs makes adjustments easy. You can move the pivot point in small increments by carrying a slug kit. You can raise and lower the Instant Center right at the track. If you want more roll, but don’t feel like you can run softer springs, you can simply change a slug and raise the RF A-Arm Pivot point. Raising the pivot point will move the RF Instant Center farther left and lower. The subtle adjustment gives you some turning help without decreasing braking stability. The RF gives you easy adjustment and you can “feel” the affect of the change just like when you move the panhard bar. You do have to readjust camber – easy deal.

Slugs that are marked give you an easy way to record Instant Center changes. A 1/4" slug makes a profound difference. Draw it out when you have time. At the track, just bolt in a pair!

A slotted A-Arm frame tab works perfectly with the slug system allowing for quick and precise adjustments.

The LF Instant Center is important too. You can use the LF to raise or lower the roll center. You can also use the LF to move the roll center left or right. You can accomplish the same thing with the RF, but this article is trying to provide simple examples to help your team see the concept and give you the confidence to try what may be a new adjustment for your team. You can certainly draw it all out, but for today just think about what happens when you move the Instant Center with simple A-Arm slugs.

When you run a Shorter RF A-Arm you generally move the roll center to the right. The shorter RF A-Arm has more angle and intersects with the lower control arm line faster – that is easy to understand, right? If the Roll Center is closer to the right it speeds the rate of travel and the car reacts quicker. Go too far and you will blast through the travel before the full force of the center of the corner arrives. When this situation occurs, the “soft push” is usually the result. So, this is a magazine article and you have a race car going around a real track. Reading is fun and accepting the limitations within this article will help you to just try adjustments. There are a ton of variables and the goal of this lesson is to simply discuss one element as if Instant Centers were not connected to anything else – of course they are! But, if by forgetting about all of the other “stuff” we can learn how to manipulate Instant Center adjustments to overcome a problem then we have learned something new.

Changing A-Arm length requires the camber to be reset. A billet nut plate speeds changes when time is short. An accurate billet caster camber gauge is a must for any race team.

Since your car builder spent the time to build your car with a proven Roll Center location we want to be careful to not adjust so much that we erase the years of testing and knowledge that our car gives you when you buy a frame. So, from a prior article Roll Center is explained here:

Roll Center Explained:

To simplify the Front Roll Center thought process it helps to understand the creation of the so called magical point.  Front Roll Center is a calculated point verses a physical place. To find it you must first locate the Instant Center both left and right.

The RF Instant Center is found by drawing a line through the center of the RF upper A-Arm ball joint extended out though the center of the A-Arm inner pivot point on the frame. Another line is drawn from the RF lower outer ball joint center though the lower control arm frame pivot. The RF lower control arm line is extended out until it meets the RF upper control arm line. Where these lines intersect is called the Instant Center. The LF Instant Center is found in the same way.

After both Instant Centers are located you can now find the Roll Center. From the RF Instant Center you draw a line back to the RF contact patch center. From the LF Instant Center you draw a line back to the LF contact patch center. Where these two imaginary lines, running from the contact patches to the corresponding Instant Center intersect, is the Roll Center. Remember – the Roll Center moves as the suspension goes through travel.

Spend time to learn about Roll Center when you are in the shop. At the track - trial and error is still common, even for Cup teams with full time engineers. 

Note:

Since the “Roll Center” location is a moving point is space it gets complicated – carrying graph paper at the track is not feasible, I prefer to spend time thinking about roll center during the design stage of building a chassis – and much thought is placed into Roll Center when designing any suspension.

 At the track, it is easy to visualize Instant Centers and difficult to think out roll center. By simplifying, I can adjust Instant Center locations right at the track as I can easily see how the upper A-Arm line passes through the lower control arm line. With simple visual estimation, I can have another adjustment method at the track and I carry slugs to make repeatable changes just like I would move the Panhard bar or change a spring.

If you use a RF A-Arm frame mounting plate that is slotted for height adjustment you can use slugs to ensure you have repeatable and documentable changes. For the Front Instant Center adjustment you can simply record that you moved the RF inner A-arm mounting point up a1/8th inch with a slug. Changing a slug is pretty easy.  If the driver doesn’t like the adjustment you can simply bolt the original slug back in.

Instant Center adjustments at the track can be used to create the feel of stiffer front springs under braking yet have the front springs feel softer in the center of the turn due to the longer lever that is created by the Instant Center length change. Many variables come into play and the teams that get the variables closest wins.

At the track – I usually focus on Instant Center adjustments by moving slugs on the upper A-Arms. You can move the lower points too, but you bring in rack location issues and bump steer corrections. The upper adjustment is easy to understand especially when track time is limited.

Lowering the RF A-Arm inner pivot raises the Front Roll Center and moves it to the right. Negative Camber is added and may need to be reset.

Raising the RF A-Arm inner pivot lowers the Front Roll Center and moves it to the left. Negative camber is reduced and may need to be reset.

Lowering the LF A-Arm inner pivot raises the Front Roll Center and moves it to the left. Positive camber is reduced and may need to be reset.

Raising the LF A-Arm inner pivot lowers the Front Roll Center and moves it to the right. Positive camber is added and may need to be reset.

The reality is that Front Roll Center is simply a derivative of the Instant Center locations.  Instant Centers are simple even through dynamic roll. Why complicate your trackside thought process with imaginary lines? Keep it simple at the track and use slugs to maintain records and repeatability. You can engineer at will after the race and study the Roll Center changes you accomplished and measure the affects of bolting in a few simple slugs.

Engineering becomes more important in racing every day. When time is short, educated experimenting is equally as valuable.

Go Forward – Move Ahead

Jeff Butcher

06/08/12

Cockpit Comfort

To win, your driver needs to be up on the wheel all through the race. Proper cockpit layout will allow your driver to be there at the end. All components in the cockpit area should be precisely located and as much time as needed should be utilized to place your driver in position “A”. Designing a cockpit layout that functions in a seamless fashion will help your team to avoid crashes, make more passes and find Victory Lane on a regular basis.

Many states have banned hand held cell phone use while driving. Even at highway speeds the distraction factor in holding a cell phone causes poor driving and accidents. We have all seen cars on the highway driving in an erratic fashion due to cell phones. Why is the car in front of you is doing 48 miles an hour in a 60 mile an hour zone? As you blast by the car, traveling at an unexplained slow speed, it is easy to spot the cell phone causing the distraction. It was a little disappointing, this morning, when I drove by our local sheriff jamming up traffic on I-5 while talking on his cell phone going 48 miles an hour in the middle lane. The speed limit on that section of the freeway is 60MPH. Unbelievable!

If a simple cell phone causes street drivers to lose focus and drive erratically, then it follows that race drivers performing at the highest level could easily lose positions or find more wrecks due to a poorly laid out cockpit. Working to place cockpit items properly, takes more time than money. Even if you have to move cockpit items multiple times to find the perfect locations, your efforts will be worth the work. Drivers are so constrained, due to tight cockpits and safety devices, that a premium must be placed on everything they need so they can stay focused on racing instead of fumbling around and becoming distracted.

Steering wheels should be mounted close to the chest to give drivers increased leverage on the wheel resulting in more control and reduced back strain. Mounting the Steering wheel on the perfect angle and directly between the driver’s shoulders provides improved longevity. An adjustable steering column mount easily slides side to side on the dash bar making it simple to get the location right both left to right and up and down. Adjustment is so simple that teams can re-adjust until the steering wheel is in the perfect location. Adding a steering spacer can be the final touch in finding a comfortable wheel position for the driver.

An steering column mount that is easily moved can be adjusted by the driver right from the seat. Adjusting the steering wheel location so it is close to the chest and at the perfect angle keeps drivers fresh.

Steering Wheel spacers quickly bolt on giving your team a simple way to locate the steering wheel perfectly. If your driver ate one too many burgers, your crew can install a different thickness spacer quickly. Keeping a variety of spacers of different thicknesses on hand is a good idea. 

Adjustable throttle pedals allow for easy fitting helping your team to locate the throttle in perfect location. Mounting the seat leg support properly gives the driver a natural place to rest their leg. Battling centrifugal force for the entire night has worn out more than one driver. Driver comfort and position in the car are paramount. Leg angles, with pedals in a comfortable position, keep your driver fresh. A slightly bent knee gives the driver throttle control for a smooth drive off the corner. A floor mounted pedal can be precisely located to fit foot position and angle. The easy adjustment of a billet hanging pedal allows for quick adjustments in the shop or right at the track.

A steering column leg brace like this one bolts right to the adjustable steering shaft mount. For high speed high banked tracks a leg brace keeps your driver fresh for a strong finish.

Quality throttle pedal systems offer adjustability for comfort and precision for the smooth application of power

Switches that are in easy reach of the driver can save a motor. On those nights when the engine faces a problem, a well located ignition switch can save thousands of dollars. All switches should be within easy reach and located so the natural reaction of the driver can quickly slap the Red Aircraft cover in an instant. Gauges should be positioned so all information is gathered with a quick glance. At race speed, any distraction that takes the eyes off the action can result in a torn up car. Spending the extra time to find perfect viewing angles can save an engine and can reduce accidents.

Switch panel brackets fit right on your roll bar so you can mount the switches within easy reach of the driver.

Brake Balance adjusters are a great tool for dialing in the set up. Often, drivers are dialing in brake bias adjustments at race speed. An ergonomic positioning of the balance bar adjuster allows the driver to focus on driving instead of blindly searching for the adjuster handle. A balance bar with a smooth action and handle that is designed for race gloves is a must. Regardless of the type of racing, fireproof race gloves are mandatory – whether it is a track rule or not. Racing without fireproof gloves is a game of Russian Roulette that should never be played. We race for fun and safety needs to be continuously in the forefront of every member of your racing organization.

This brake balance adjuster has an easy to operate handle that is designed for adjustment when wearing fire resistant gloves. Your team can mount this version right out of the package - wide mounting holes allow you to mount it with out the need for dis-assembly.

Radios should be located so the driver can reach the controls. More than once I have seen cars where a team member needs to turn on the radio as the controls are out of reach of the driver. Too often, the race starts only to find out that the crew forgot to turn the radio on. Driver’s should be able to easily reach the volume control and on off switch. Changing channels is a reality so make sure your driver can easily reach the radio controls.

Radios are smaller today - using the right size box protects your investment. The clamp on this model rotates so you can mount on a roll bar within easy reach of the driver. Radios should be mounted so that the driver can operate the controls. If turning on the radio is forgotten - the driver should be able to easily reach the controls.

Drink bottles with an anti siphon valve ensure that drivers get needed hydration even if the hose falls. An anti siphon valve is a simple solution – if the hose falls the driver can simply grab anywhere on the hose to get an easy drink. Drink bottle fluid seems to always end up all over the floor at the hottest races of the year. Be sure to use a sports hydration fluid that supplies the driver with needed nutrition during practice and throughout the race. On a hot race day drivers fuel their calorie burn with plenty of adrenaline. Assign a crew member to clean the drink bottle right after the race. Poisoning your driver with a moldy drink bottle is a bad deal. Feeding your driver liquid that is better suited for a science experiment is not exactly the best way to prepare to win.

Drink bottles that are big enough to hydrate your driver for an entire night are a good idea. Anti-Siphon bite valves keep fluid in the bottle when it is most important. Be sure to sanitize the drink bottle and the end of every race night. The last thing your team needs is to have your driver ingesting a science experiment created by leaving fluid in a hot car to ferment.

A side view mirror and a rear view mirror need to be located so that the driver can see the entire envelope around their car in an instant. With your driver strapped in at the shop, verify that there are zero blind spots. A crew member can quickly walk around the car to verify that your driver can see everything directly with their eyes or with a rapid glance to the mirrors. Adjust and remount mirrors as needed to eliminate all blind spots. Mirrors are a safety device and while spotters play a great role – the buck stops with the driver and clear vision is needed at all times.

A wide angle mirror side view mirror should be designed for the job at hand verses being a bunch of cobbled up junk that imitates a real race part.

Safety in the cockpit should be given the highest priority. Sealing up every crack keeps carbon monoxide out of the cockpit. A fire resistant shifter boot seals out fumes and debris and is a must have item for fire protection. Fresh air is a must and a cooling fan supplying outside air through the helmet maintains the health of your driver. A window net kit should be installed so the window net is stretched tight inside of the roll bars and an easy to grip handle should have free and clear access. 1/10ths of a second matter should your driver need to get out of the car. Spend the time on safety. Treat your driver like a family member – because they probably are at your family reunion.

A fire extinguisher is a high pressure cylinder. Can you imagine the chaos, in the cockpit, if a fire extinguisher were to come loose? With the contents of the fire extinguisher being randomly sprayed about, visibility would be zero at race speed. Breathing would be difficult and the mess is difficult to clean up. A billet fire extinguisher mount solves the problem and allows for a mounting location that provides instant access. Spending ample time on fire protection is a responsibility for any team at every level of racing.

When it comes to mounting your fire bottle, safety is the primary concern.

By covering the basics of proper cockpit layout, you will improve driving focus and driver safety. Many of the covered topics may seem obvious yet, every time I am at the track I see numerous examples, from multiple teams, where proper time has not been spent on the obvious. Just about all racers have more time than money – spending the time needed for proper safety and driver comfort will actually gain you time. Proper effort placed into your cockpit layout will save you dollars that takes only a little time to spend.

Go Forward – Move Ahead

Jeff Butcher
9/1/11

Mounting Hardware

The building season brings many challenges relating to constructing a car that is lightweight, built to perform, and easy to work on. Back in the day, we had to fabricate all of our hardware – somehow the job got done, but often the results looked like a kindergarten art project gone bad.

 Today, there are so many pieces available at your local race dealer, the car building experience has transformed from duct tape and bailing wire to billet and strength. Really, you can bolt on about any manufactured part saving valuable construction time. As an added benefit, professionally manufactured parts make working on the car easy and efficient throughout the course of the year. During the ongoing maintenance that occurs over the course of the season a part made for the job saves a ton of time. Sometimes building a mount yourself saves money, but if it takes 3 nights to build it and you miss the first race then how much is really saved?

If you have built many cars, past experience assists you in making the choice of fabricating on your own, or paying a modest price for a part that is manufactured specifically for the job at hand. Luckily for racers, racing manufactures work on thin profits and often teams can buy a professional part for less money than if they were to make a one off part on their own. A manufactured part is nearly always cleaner, stronger and lighter weight. If it is your first car build, then buying parts can eliminate many frustrating nights. That said – if you can do a quality fabrication job and save money then I am all for it. If the savings of making an item in your shop helps you to get your team to more races, then building it yourself can be a great idea.

Recently, I answered a comment about a Facebook post – a customer was smack talking about building their own bump shims instead of buying a manufactured version. Hey, if you can make a professional part you should – saving money in racing is hard to do and if savings means you can make one more race then more power to the innovation of the garage fabricator. Making your own Bump Shims is not too difficult, but when you factor in the time, hassle, and gas costs spent chasing down materials a production made kit starts to look pretty good. It pays to consider the big picture before starting and take note that a professional kit will come with all the small details handled right out of the box.

A Professional Bump Shim Kit comes with an organizational case, a variety of shim thicknesses, and a billet wrench. The billet wrench reaches in between the spring coils making track changes quick and pain free. Download the JOES App KalcPack 1 and use the Bump ShimKalc to adjust your bump stops from your shop baseline setting. To download for free go here: JOES App Store

A case in point is a radiator mount. Anybody that has built a stock car has spent multiple nights making a mount to hold their expensive aluminum radiator in place. When it is time to put on the hood on the day of your first race, it is a painful to learn that the radiator is sticking above the hood line. Often, the need to re-fabricate the radiator mount is discovered after you frame has been powder coated. For the balance of the year, your team gets to endure the pain of looking at burnt paint and a cobbled up mount every time the hood is opened. Of course, fellow competitors are happy to toss a barb your way to cement the negative effects of choices made during the off season.

An adjustable radiator mount quickly adjusts from left to right. Multiple mounting holes ensure that your team can get the mounting height exactly right, even in the event of a body style change. The bolt on design makes quick work out of repairing damage.

Many series have shock rules that are designed to keep costs down. Other series utilize shock packages that come with a budget that would run a small city. If you have a pretty penny invested in shocks, then ensuring that your expensive hardware is mounted safely is a top priority. Nylon zip ties cost pennies a piece and hold shock canisters from falling off the car. With a zip tie the penalty is that your freshly painted frame gets scratched up and the cool anodize on your shock canister gets worn very quickly. Further, the smallest of dents in your expensive remote shock canister renders it useless. If you can build a nice canister mount in a reasonable amount of time then I say fabricate away. Before you start building four canister mounts to cover the corners of your car, it might pay to at least consider the parts that you can buy right off the shelf. Clean, quick, lightweight pieces that are optimally designed for quick adjustments at the track are features that are built into professional versions.


A Remote Canister Mount should have a rubber isolator reducing foaming. Doing it right protects your expensive investment and keeps your frame from getting scratched up.

I have seen body braces made out of scrap sheet metal strips, spare rod, or even scrap Lexan window material. These options work fine, but often the craftsmanship leaves a bit to be desired. And, if you want to make an adjustment to your fender width at the track then your team is burdened with the task of trying to fabricate in the pits without the luxury of the specialized tools that are available in the shop. Usually, manufacturing parts at the track creates a major panic due to the track schedule and fabricating in the field creates a ton of pressure at a time when teams should be focused on car speed.

Professional body mounts come fully prepared and ready to go. Depending on your type of racing you can chose a body brace that flexes with your fiberglass panels – their design pops the fiberglass right back into place after incidental contact. You can choose a rigid mount to hold your fenders steady in the wind created by high speeds improving aerodynamic performance. Whatever your choice, a manufactured version is ready right out of the package and installs in minutes. I am always amazed at how long it takes to fabricate something as simple as a fender brace. Still, if making body braces on your own is the money saving task that gets you to the track, then save some dollars and build away.

A solid body mount with an aluminum rod will hold your body panels rigidly in place at high speeds for aerodynamic performance. Flexible mounts pop fiberglass panels right back into position after incidental short track contact.

When it comes to spoiler supports I recommend purchasing a manufactured spoiler brace. Sure, you can make a support easy enough, but it is difficult to make adjustable spoiler braces in the shop. You should consider that you need 8 matching spoiler braces before you start fabricating on your own. A machined professional unit comes with all the needed hardware and is built for good looks and quick spoiler angle adjustments. I always recommend Lexan rear spoilers if allowed by your rules. The vision increase is dramatic. Spoiler braces often need support washers and manufactured aluminum versions provide a clean look while keeping your Lexan spoiler from cracking. A simple washer can provide support, so pick and choose which purchased items fit your budget.

 

Usually your rear spoiler needs eight supports. The ability to adjust your spoiler angle quickly can gain needed speed. Be sure to consider the big picture before jumping into making spoiler supports on your own. Often, you can purchase a professionally manufactured unit for less than you can make one on your own.

Hood pins work great to hold the hood in position especially if your hood is completely removable and lightweight. If you have a hinged hood or a steel hood, then purchasing manufactured hood hinges makes working on the car much easier. Billet versions lock in place and a quick tap releases the hood to close up the engine area quickly. Anyone that has been around racing long has had a hood fall on their head and the associated headache does little for productivity. If you can make good hood supports, then have a ball. Still – I am busy on that night and would choose to buy a pair. Manufactured hood hinge supports look good and have the strength to keep you working. Think about how many times you open the hood on a Saturday night?

Billet hood supports lock the hood in place in the open position, allowing for easy engine compartment access while saving your crew from bumps on the head. A quick tap on the hinge quickly releases the locking action. Mounting the hood to the car helps to prevent scratches on the roof and keeps your hood from flying off in the wind.

Your fire bottle is another area where buying a good mount can be beneficial. With care, you can make a solid mount for your fire bottle. Be sure to form fit any sheet metal and use hardware that handles the weight. Fire bottles are quite heavy and should you bounce off of something then you need to have a guarantee that the fire suppression bottle stays put so it can perform when you need it most. If you make fire bottle supports in your shop, think safety and be sure to use materials that can handle the heavy weight.

Mounting your fire bottle requires materials that handle the heavy weight of your fire suppression system. Safety first absolutely applies here.

A well designed shifter boot helps you to access the shifter lever bolts assisting in a quick engine or transmission change both at the track and in the shop. Making one is possible, but be sure to use fire resistant material for the boot. Safety items are simply not the area to save money so if you choose to make your own – do it right. For this project I would buy the best kit I can find.

A Shifter boot that snaps into place gives you quick access to the shifter bolts. Engine or transmission changes can be accomplished quickly. Fire resistant material offers protection and the reflective lining reduces cockpit temperatures.

Window nets can be difficult to mount on your own. Window nets need to be tight when buttoned up and the installation configuration can help your car to be more aerodynamic. If you make your own kit, be sure to paint steel parts preventing rust from deteriorating the window net fabric. A window net kit is a nice luxury when building or renovating a car. Safety first applies for sure. Ensure that the latch mechanism is easy to operate for both your team members and emergency personnel.

Window Net mounting hardware should be rigid, ensuring a window net that is tight. The latch mechanism needs to be easily operable for your crew as well as track safety workers.

Car wiring is a mystery for many teams. You can choose wire up your car and make simple mounts for your switches and lights. Be sure to use a red flip up cover for the ignition shut off. In an emergency such as a stuck throttle, an easily seen big flip up cover helps your driver to hit the switch shutting down the engine quickly. You can install switch components on your own if you have the time. Keep in mind that you need to purchase the switches that are rated and sized properly. Rubber boots keep moisture and dirt out of the switches helping your car to keep running at all times. Solder all the joints so that you finish races. Over time, crimped connectors, that don’t seal the wire connections with solder, can corrode and fail. Washing the car can fill the wiring connections and switches with dirt and grease. It is always tough to see the race leader loose speed coming off turn 4 because a 10 cent connection failed on the last lap. I have seen more than one wreck due to a car loosing speed at the wrong time. Wiring is an area where you can do things on your own. If you tackle the wiring, spend the few extra minutes to use solder and heat shrink at all connections.

Manufactured switch panels make wiring the car a breeze. Billet mounts professionally locate switch panels in easy reach of the driver. Bolt on mounts allow you to adjust location with worrying about cutting off a welded on tab. Always use a red flip-up cover so your driver can slap the ignition off quickly in the event of an emergency. Rubber sealed switches keep your car running when it matters most.

In the end, building a car with professional components may be the choice that keeps your car running for that next win. A well built car may attract a sponsor out of the grandstands helping you to fund your fun. Building your car right is what matters regardless of where the parts come from. Safety items must be installed without compromise. If you can build a professional part, without spending 2 weeks per project, then self fabricating can be a great idea to save cost. If you place a premium on constructing a car that is easy to maintain, then purchasing well designed manufactured parts may actually save you time and money over the course of a long year. At 2:00 a.m., on the night before the race, the light bulb moment comes as you enter the self imposed sleep deprivation period that comes from trying to do too much on your own. If every race weekend comes with a Friday night all nighter, then the lack of sleep can help you to determine when to buy and when to build. If your team members are tired on race day it does show up in your finish results.

If you fabricated too many parts on your own for this build season, then experience might guide you for the next time you are ready to construct a new car. The goal should always be to build a better car than you had before. Prior experience will guide the way and your luck will be based on your preparation creating sustainable opportunity.

Go Forward – Move Ahead

Jeff Butcher

3/1/12

The Nose Knows | Performance Racing Industry

The Nose Knows | Performance Racing Industry

Whizzing by me on the 2011 PRI Show floor, at the speed of a young Olympic sprinter, was racing industry icon Tony Tobias. Tony had someone to please and moved quickly to meet the need with a sense of urgency that his customers have come to rely upon – he truly enjoys pleasing all.  He literally ran at full sprint to accomplish his mission when most would chose to casually saunter across the million square feet that is PRI Orlando.  

Pushing around 80% of 100 years, Tobias continuously exudes energy at well over Einstein’s mandated universe speed limit of 186,000 miles per second, otherwise known as the speed of light. In racer terms, the speed of light is 700 million miles per hour. At that speed, bump drafting is highly discouraged. Tony’s mental horsepower is immeasurable as we have yet to construct a dynamometer that can record the synapse speeds racing through the brain of the one and only Tony Tobias. Tony is the Vince Lombardi of the racing community – a proven leader for sure.

Tony’s long tenure, at the insanely well made Racecar Engineering Magazine, provides a documented example of how one individual can maximize a business brand by leveraging their personal brand. Tobias proudly introduces himself to new faces with the self imposed moniker “Tony the Nose”.  He leaves an indelible mark and when he meets someone for just a few seconds, he is remembered. “The Nose” connects himself to his company. He combines his personal brand with the branding of Racecar Engineering. Elephants never forget, “The Nose” is never forgotten.

You can count on Tony to greet you with his glowing smile. The energy he exudes is contagious, it is powerful. Why walk when you can run? Tony is full speed – full time. Tobias is a noteworthy face in the racing niche and provides a human example that everyone can learn from. Racecar Engineering and Tony are one. Tony has created a personal brand that confidently announces his contributions without the need of a high pressure sales pitch. The result is a successful branding effort that subconsciously leaves a memorable and positive experience for his customers – his friends. With few words, Tony ingrains his synergized brand deep into the minds of those he touches. Racecar Engineering is a magazine – Tony Tobias is genuine and he crafts his brand into the framework of his book in a caring and seamless fashion. Think of Tony and you instinctively think of Racecar Engineering.

Tobias is always on the move and gives people what they want. His warm welcome makes all on his path feel better than before he arrived. His approach is to partner by cultivating relationships through integrity, energy, and devotion. Tobias has zero need to sell. His customers are his friends – they are his extended family. He proudly takes a God given physical attribute and utilizes “The Nose” to create a fun and memorable experience. Quality marketing, in its simplest form, is defined as leaving a memorable positive impression. Tony is having the time of his life and has created a coveted branding story by simply allowing others to witness Tony being himself. The deal is closed through identification of need. Solutions are offered verses needing to be sold. Sales people sell – Tony delivers.

Enthusiastically embracing new ideas has made Tobias relevant over the long haul – he has laid the ground work, in earnest, to always be relevant. A quick review ofhis Facebook photo albums displays a man having a blast every single second – the 10 year old boy inside is easily seen. Tony is an avid social media user and his approach to life gives us all an opportunity to learn from his dynamic and ever evolving adventures.

Tony has spent his lifetime creating an individual brand that is remembered. His lifestyle is his brand. By combining his profession with play, Tony proves that passion and fun invoke a high level of success in the workplace.

To create the unique marketing plan, that you can admire and cultivate, taking note of what Tony Tobias accomplishes will give you a proven template to emulate. Tony demonstrates that enjoying life results in overall success at home and in the office.  A complete well rounded life creates a universe full of memorable impressions. If you knew the Tony Tobias formula, then you would be sought after as the one that knows. Memorable marketing is what “The Nose” knows. Being yourself is the one tool that you always control, once you believe that you create your own memorable impressions, then you will be your own unique version of - the knows.

Tony Tobias, Racecar Engineering Magazine and Autosport Engineering Show.

Tony Tobias 5 pts

Thank you Jeff.

I am speechless, a first for me!!!. All I do is get to meet the nicest guys who also share my passion for racing. I also get paid as well.

This blog has given my the most happiness I have ever had in my working life, apart from whipping Jeremy Shaw at the first  PRI media race two years ago, took second place off him on last lap!!!

Seriously this great businees is the most important  part of my life, I am blessed.

SHAREFLAGReplyLike

Jeff Butcher 6 pts

Well Tony - great inspiration makes for fun writing. Thanks for providing a positive example. I strive to live up to the bar you have set. Thanks so much for all you do.

Jeff Butcher

Up On The Wheel

Flying has always been on the list of things I would rather avoid. Of course, any dream destination becomes possible due to the miracle of modern flight. The travel aversion is derived from being in a cramped space that always seems to have the amenities a finger tip out of reach. Control is taken and as passengers, the drink cart is either too far away or bashing into the back of your already cramped elbow. Cocktail please!


While traveling from Seattle to Orlando for the 2011 Performance Racing Industry Tradeshow, I had a bucket load of time to experience the choices made by the engineers of the new Boeing 737 that was to carry us from point A to point B. Throw in the point C detour through New Jersey and internal debate time allowed me an eternity to wonder what engineers consider as the definition of “comfortable”. Plane engineers are forced to make compromises as their stock market driven corporations need to squeeze in extra seats striving for every penny that can pour into the profit column. The cramped space is an issue. But, the real problem is the loss of control. Somehow, my plane seat clarified my understanding that drivers must feel in control in order to win. I will say the plane engineers did a bang up job making sure the jet engines were attached securely to the wings.

My bonus Jersey Shore extended travel time provided ample opportunity for me to think about how to help drivers feel in control of their in car surroundings. Being bolted down to the seat like the Statue of Liberty on Ellis Island certainly defines a loss of control. Lady Liberty has been strapped down a long time – I hope she is happy with her position. Like airline travel, race driver amenities are predetermined and comfort choices are decided as soon as the belts are pulled tight and the engine roars to life.

The glare off my in flight TV was accentuated by the screaming 4 year old in front of me that made sure to shake the headrest TV screen straining my ability to absorb the commands of Captain Kirk yelling at Scotty that he needed “More Power”. Kirk must have been a crew chief in a former life. My poorly positioned in flight TV can easily be compared to gauges in a racecar. Mounting gauges so they can be seen at 150 MPH with an intuitive glance is a little more important that watching reruns of overly dramatic actors in Hollywood. Then again, drivers do sign autographs and smile for the camera while saying how much they love everyone. So, perhaps the red carpet at driver introductions is about the same as the content on American Idol where Ryan Seacrest waited in fear of the Simon ambush that came every week. The comparisons are endless – Bush race competitors attacking doctor’s makes for racing’s version of reality TV. Long live the “E” network.

All race team members are backyard engineers. Lucky teams are graced with college educated engineers. When building a car, are you just placing the gauges where they look good or are you considering the viewing angles and importance of each gauge?

Prioritizing gauge position is a choice that goes beyond centering them on the sheet metal dash.

An easy gauge mounting tip is to strap the driver’s helmet to the seat in race position. Needed safety devices prevent drivers from moving their heads from side to side. With the helmet strapped in place, tape a string to the center of the visor or tear off and tape the other string end to the dash. Place the dash side string where it runs straight from the helmet shield field of vision making sure the line of site is maintained throughout the steering radius. The most important gauge goes in the priority position and is located so a steering wheel spoke never blocks the drivers’ view of the gauge. Make sure the string stays straight through the turning path of the steering wheel. Follow the same routine with a second string for gauge 2 and mount the priority 2 gauge in a fashion that allows clear vision with an instant glance. If compromises must be made, make the required compromises on priority gauge 3 and 4. Running a string from the helmet location to the dash will show you, in advance, the line of site obstacles that you must overcome – and the string method can save you from drilling 2.5” holes in the wrong spot potentially destroying new sheet metal due to short cutting the planning process.

To keep your diver in control, switch panels need to be within easy reach. With the driver strapped in, all switches need to be ergonomically placed so the driver can instinctively activate all switches instantaneously. Red Flip Up Aircraft covers are mighty handy if your team is hit with the misfortune of a stuck throttle. Sudden losses of oil pressure benefits from a Flip Up switch cover potentially saving you thousands in repair costs. Even a 1/10th of a second time savings can save a pile of money if the driver can hit that switch cover quickly when the oil pressure drops. In the event of an on track mishap, ignition switches and start buttons need to be located for quick and natural operation. All switches need to be well marked. Often, drivers get into multiple types of cars and well marked switches are a must. Knowing, instinctively, the function of each switch falls in the safety category and mounting switches within easy reach is an area where compromise is a flagrant foul that is easily remedied by any backyard engineer.

Aircraft Switch Covers help drivers to instantly turn off their cars in the event of a stuck throttle or sudden loss of oil pressure. Easy access can save equipment and improves safety. A quick flip can save severe engine damage. Rubber coating on the switches seals out moisture and dirt, helping the electrical system to work when it matters most.

Battery disconnect switch location is vital as well. Often, I have seen team members turn on the main power switch as a poor mounting location puts it out of the reach of the driver. In the event of a wreck or fire, drivers need to turn off the battery power quickly so mounting location must be within easy reach of the driver.

A red handle makes finding the battery disconnect switch easier for track saftey workers. Large engraved On/Off letters identify the off position clearly so safety workers and crew members can visually see the power is off in the event of trouble. Isolating the battery during the week helps to ensure that your battery maintains a full charge.

All series should mandate a common battery disconnect mounting location that is easily accessible by outside track safety workers. We race for fun and something as simple as the battery disconnect switch location should be “engineered” verses being placed where it is just easy. Utilizing a 2 pole battery disconnect switch is highly advised and really is a requirement if you run an alternator. Turning the red handle to the off position on your battery disconnect should shut down electrical power to the entire car. While these things seem simple, their importance grows when you have been around racing for your entire life. After many years in the industry, safety issues can and do happen to people you know and incidents are not just headlines in a racing paper. Thinking out the battery switch location takes little time. Cultivate an environment that makes safety a priority for every team member regardless of their experience.

A sealed 2-Pole Battery disconnect switch keeps dirt and moisture out of switch. The small terminals are designed to disconnect alternator power and the large terminals isolate your electrical system from the main positive lead on the battery for safety.

As I write on the plane, my laptop battery is fading. I am past deadline and must get my writing done on this flight. Luckily, this plane has a power outlet to keep my laptop working. I know the outlet is down there but, I find myself fumbling around trying to get my cord plugged in and the outlet location is, well it is “awkward” to say the least. It is fantastic that there is a power outlet close by and I am happy I am not limited to 2 hours of laptop battery power. Still, how can an engineer pick the location for my nearest outlet in a spot that would be illegal in 15 states? Somehow, the outlet is between the legs of the woman next to me? Even though I know the outlet is there, getting my cord plugged in is extremely difficult. Plugging in my cord between the legs of a woman next to me couldn’t have possibly been the only way available outlet location on this big plane?

I asked the nice skirt clad lady to plug the cord in for me. It is taking her awhile. It’s ok, the show is much better than the in flight movie on my baby shaken glared filled screen, I have the entire flight in front of me for my red face to return to normal. Since we land in New Jersey, maybe this is my unplanned audition to replace “The Situation”? Really, an engineer with a college degree could only think of placing the outlet where Hugh Hefner keeps his frequent flyer miles? While entertaining, I think we as backyard engineers can use the airplane outlet example to lay out our cockpits for optimal use.

For drivers to win often, they need to feel in control. Their hands are on the steering wheel for the entire night. Locating the steering wheel in perfect position will give your driver the feeling of control. Adjusting the steering wheel is a time consuming effort and every team should find the perfect steering mounting position for their star driver. Steering wheel spacers can easily be installed and close tolerance steering wheel disconnects are mandatory. A solid steering system, free from slop, connects the driver to the track and pure feedback increases speed and reduces fatigue. Steering wheel spacers are built in a variety of thicknesses and even small quarter inch increments can be the difference that creates optimal feel and control. I always recommend large 17” steering wheels, mounted close to the chest to reduce back strain. 15” wheels are quite common. Adding even an inch in diameter reduces strain and helps drivers to stay fresh. Performance is improved if teams spend the time to visualize mounting the steering shaft properly.

Mounting your steering wheel in a comfortable position keeps your driver there at the end. Spacers come in a variety of thichnesses allowing your team to fine tune the steering wheel position. Even if you driver ate too many hamburgers during the week, you can quickly change the spacer for optimal comfort.

An adjustable steering column mount makes it easy for drivers to adjust the wheel while they are right in the seat. Column mounting experimentation allows the driver to find the best angle and wheel position. An angle adjustment may require another try with bolt on spacers. Trial and error coupled with minimal effort and teamwork will provide needed driver comfort.

A bolt on steering column mount is adjustable side to side and up and down. Drivers can make quick adjustments while they are sitting in the seat so that they can dial in the column position perfectly.

A leg support bolted to the steering column gives your driver a comfortable place to rest their leg. On a long race the effort required to hold the weight of a leg for 150 laps increases fatigue. Comfort here provides needed energy that can be used elsewhere helping your driver win more races. The G forces on left hand turns are handled easily with a well positioned padded leg support.


Along with size, drivers need to decide what creates the best feel. If you go to a dirt track 99% of the steering wheels will be uncoated and drilled for weight savings. Dirt drivers insist on lightweight everything. Even the added weight of rubber coating on their steering wheel effects performance. Tradition dictates no rubber coated wheels on dirt.

When dealing with Asphalt teams, it is rare to see a steering wheel without a rubber coating of some sort. The rubber provides added grip and the tacky feel gives drivers the control they need. Vibrations are absorbed and chassis feedback through the steering column is enhanced. The standard on asphalt includes the use of rubber coated wheels and the opposite is true on dirt. I sometimes wonder if dirt and asphalt teams should experiment to see if they can learn from other forms of racing. You never see coated wheels at a dirt track and you never see bare aluminum wheels at an asphalt track. Maybe it is time for the different groups to see what the other side is thinking?

Coated wheels are common on asphalt tracks and a tacky grip helps drivers to maintain control. Dirt cars rarely use rubber grip wheels and most often go with bare aluminum for ultimate weight savings. Maybe the two groups of racers should get together and discuss why they take the opposite approach. I think sharing information between dirt track and asphalt teams would open up an entire new area of learning for both groups.

When your dream destination is a road that circles about until the wind unfurls a checkered flag directing your team to Victory Lane, then taking time to understand the decisions that created the non-stop winning route will keep you on schedule to repeat the journey. Engineering to win is simply a compilation of choices that provide the individual ideas needed to propel groups towards consistency. Small steps guide predetermined construction elements that produce a winning routine. Planning reveals the path to your desired destination. Once your team sees the winning path, engineering to win becomes the programmed norm and the desire to win is transforms competing into a tradition of winning.

Go Forward – Move Ahead

Jeff Butcher

12/1/11